Punjabi Dhaba-Style Lamb Curry

Mix the lamb with the yoghurt, turmeric, chilli powder and salt. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a heavy-based pan over a medium heat. Add the cardamom, cinnamon, 1 bay leaf, peppercorns, cloves and dried chilli, if using. Fry for about 1 minute until fragrant.

Add the sliced onions and cook patiently until a deep golden brown. Stir in the crushed ginger, garlic and crushed green chilli, then cook for 1 minute.

Add the marinated lamb and raise the heat. Stir-fry until the outside of the meat has changed colour, then add the chopped tomato and cook until softened.

Stir in 1 teaspoon of the ground coriander and the meat masala, if using. Pour in the warm water, bring to a gentle simmer, cover and cook for about 45 minutes, or until the lamb is tender. Add a splash more water if the gravy becomes too thick before the meat is ready.

For the tarka, heat the remaining oil in a separate frying pan. Add the remaining bay leaves, cumin seeds and crushed coriander seeds. When aromatic, add the finely chopped onion and cook until golden.

Add the reserved crushed ginger, garlic and green chilli, if using, and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the remaining ground coriander and Kashmiri chilli powder.

Add the roughly chopped tomatoes and a pinch of salt. Cook until they collapse and the oil begins to show around the edges, then stir in the crushed fenugreek leaves.

Pour the hot tarka into the cooked lamb curry and stir gently so the tempering stays aromatic. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Scatter over ginger juliennes, fresh coriander and a little garam masala. Serve hot with naan, tandoori roti or steamed basmati rice.