Chicken Changezi

Put the chicken in a large bowl with 1 teaspoon of the salt, the lemon juice, 1 1/2 tablespoons Kashmiri chilli powder, 2 teaspoons cumin, 2 teaspoons coriander and 3 tablespoons garlic ginger chilli paste. Rub everything well into the chicken and leave for at least 20 minutes, or chill for a few hours if you have time.

Heat 3 tablespoons ghee or oil in a wide lidded pan over a medium-high heat. Add the marinated chicken and brown it for about 4 minutes on the first side, then turn and brown the other side.

Turn the heat down, cover the pan and cook the chicken for about 10 minutes. It should be partly cooked but not finished at this stage. Tip the chicken and every drop of its cooking juices into a bowl and set aside.

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons ghee or oil to the pan. Fry the onions with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt for about 8 minutes, stirring often, until they are soft, golden and starting to caramelise at the edges.

Stir in the remaining 4 tablespoons garlic ginger chilli paste and cook for 1 minute. Add the turmeric, remaining 1 tablespoon Kashmiri chilli powder, chaat masala if using, remaining 1 tablespoon cumin and remaining 1 tablespoon coriander.

Pour in the water or stock and scrape the pan so the spices do not catch. Add the passata, bring to a gentle simmer, then cover and cook for 20 minutes until the sauce has deepened and thickened.

For a richer street-style finish, heat the mustard oil in a second wide pan until shimmering, then carefully ladle in the prepared sauce and let it bubble hard for a minute or two. If skipping the mustard oil, keep working in the original pan.

Lower the heat. Stir in the yoghurt one spoonful at a time, then add the cream, garam masala and crushed kasoori methi.

Return the chicken and its resting juices to the sauce. Simmer gently for 5 to 8 minutes, or until the chicken is fully cooked through and coated in the glossy gravy. Taste for salt, then finish with coriander, ginger, green chilli and lemon wedges if using.